Beef, Coals, and Nirvana

July 9, 2009

Here is my favorite Q & A from the article copied below:

Q: You say in the book food shouldn’t be too pretty. Why?

A: “I believe that you cook, and when it’s ready you just put in on the plate. Don’t touch it, don’t move it around. Cooking is a craft, it’s not an art. I don’t believe in decoration. (On my TV show) I only cook outside in beautiful places with fires and it’s very simple. I do it to fight this trend in the world of cooking of complicated recipes. I just have a couple of eggs in my pocket and I chop an onion on my knee and cook something on a stick.”

The best “Q” I have ever made or had…was “simple”

Simple in preparation.  Simple in seasoning.  Simple in sauce.  Simple with fuels.

Give me a 7# brisket, salt, pepper, chile powder, lump charcoal, pecan wood, beef broth, Guinness, Big Ricks, Weber kettle and about 8-9 hours… and I will deliver some mighty fine eats.

Viva Argentina!

Q&A: Top Argentine chef Francis Mallman explains how to grill an entire cow

Nick Zieminski, Reuters Published: Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Chef Francis Mallman.HandoutChef Francis Mallman.

NEW YORK • If you’re going to grill the Argentine way, it helps to have a hunger for meat, a big wood fire, and plenty of open space.

Patagonia will do.

Argentine chef Francis Mallmann, who runs three highly-regarded restaurants in Argentina and Uruguay, was raised in the Patagonia region and credits its culture and style for inspiring his cooking.

His television show airs across Latin America, and he may launch a program for U.S. audiences to help fight a trend toward overly complicated recipes.

Mallmann, who spoke with Reuters this month, aims to inspire American cooks with the simple, unpretentious food in his new cookbook, “Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way.”

Q: Yours may be the only cookbook to include a recipe for grilling an entire cow. Who is your audience?

A: “The idea was to adapt all the Argentine ways of cooking into a home, where you can do these things in the backyard or a kitchen even if you don’t want to light a fire. You can still achieve good things on a stove, the burned orange with rosemary, burned tomato with oregano, the smashed beet with the goat cheese and garlic chips. You can’t do the cow inside.”

Q: What defines Argentine cooking?

A: “It has to do with our culture, our idiosyncrasies. We are a bleeding country, economically, socially, but there is a huge beauty in that adversity. That struggle makes you creative. That goes into cooking, into tango, into soccer.”

Q: Why is it often important to burn the food a little?

A: “I like the taste of burned. In some things it works really well, like with tomatoes or oranges. Lamb is good slightly charred. I don’t believe in harmony when you eat, I like contrasts. Charred meat has that bite, but there’s a boundary, it can’t be black.”

Q: You say in the book food shouldn’t be too pretty. Why?

A: “I believe that you cook, and when it’s ready you just put in on the plate. Don’t touch it, don’t move it around. Cooking is a craft, it’s not an art. I don’t believe in decoration. (On my TV show) I only cook outside in beautiful places with fires and it’s very simple. I do it to fight this trend in the world of cooking of complicated recipes. I just have a couple of eggs in my pocket and I chop an onion on my knee and cook something on a stick.”

Q: Is cooking never an art?

A: “Never. The only reason to eat and drink well is to have better conversations with peers. It’s arrogant to think that cooking is an art. It shouldn’t be like going to a cathedral.”

Q: What makes a good chimichurri sauce?

A: “There’s only one chimichurri. It’s like minestrone in Italy, it can change from town to town, but the basics are olive oil, salmuera, which is kind of a brine … red wine vinegar and fresh, chopped parsley and oregano. Once I saw pineapple chimichurri, strawberry chimichurri, I was horrified. That’s what happens with trends. A trend comes up and we destroy the culture. If you want to make it with strawberries, call it something else.”

Q: Are there certain ingredients you can’t do without?

A: “Very good salt, very good olive oil, very good red wine vinegar. With that you can do anything. Good sea salts have texture, they’re big, but when you bite them they fall apart. The best olive oils for me are the peppery ones.”

Q: How do you cook a complete cow?

A: “Very slowly, over 14, 16 hours. It’s not the most delicious thing, it’s a culture thing. You have 200 people at a party. some parts will be tasty and tender, some will be very tough. it’s not the best recipe in the book.”

© Thomson Reuters 2009.

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Brrrrrr Brrrisket!

March 1, 2009

Grand Rapids, MI, Sunday, March 1st.  Sunny and 16 degrees.  A 6.5# brisket is seasoned (salt, chile powder and pepper). Applied on top of a mustard slather.  The Weber kettle is fired up.  Apple chips soaking.  A long, cold, “Q” is awaiting!

For those interested, I cook this indirect for about 2-3 hours, w/heavy smoke.  I then wrap in foil, adding a “broth” of beer, BBQ Sauce and beef bouillon, crimping tightly.  It goes back on the grill for another 3-4 hours.   (I know, I’m a CDF.)

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Here is the finishing sauce I am considering (if not for today, then another cook.  If it tastes like it “sounds”…a perfect combination of sweet and spicy)  From Bon Appetit

This sweet-savory sauce is served with a mixed grill of baby back ribs, chicken breasts, and smoked sausages in our Fourth of July Cooking Club menu. Adjust the sauce’s heat by adding hot pepper sauce to taste.
4 Cups
June 2008

Ingredients

  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • 2 cups chopped onions
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 12-ounce bottles (ketchup-style) chili sauce
  • 1 12- to 13-ounce jar cherry preserves or jam
  • 1 cup cherry cola (regular, not diet)
  • 1/3 cup (packed) golden brown sugar
  • 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon (or more) hot pepper sauce

Preparation

  • Heat oil in heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add onions; sauté until golden, about 7 minutes. Add garlic and stir 1 minute. Stir in chili sauce, preserves, cherry cola, brown sugar, and vinegar; bring to simmer, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer uncovered until reduced to 4 cups, stirring often to prevent scorching, about 50 minutes. Stir in 1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper and more hot pepper sauce, if desired. Transfer to bowl and cool completely. DO AHEAD Can be made 2 weeks ahead. Cover and refrigerate.

Texas Beef Brisket Chili

September 19, 2008
Taking a break from the grill, but still working on some brisket.
Here is a recipe I am trying out from Bon Appetit.  I am very excited about this…serve time should be halftime of the N.D/MSU football game on Saturday.   I report on the results…sometimes recipes look better than they taste!

Texas Beef Brisket Chili


A cold-weather favorite, this all-beef, no-bean chili gets added appeal from a seasonal ingredient: butternut squash. For best results, make the chili at least one day ahead so that the flavors have time to meld.

8 to 10 servings
October 2008

Ingredients

CHILI

  • 6 large dried ancho chiles* (about 3 ounces), stemmed, seeded, coarsely torn
  • 6 oz bacon, diced
  • 1 1/4 pounds onions, chopped (about 4 cups)
  • 1 5-pound flat-cut (also called first-cut) beef brisket, cut into 2 1/2- to 3-inch cubes
  • Coarse kosher salt
  • 6 large garlic cloves, peeled
  • 2 tablespoons chili powder
  • 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 1 teaspoon ground coriander
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt
  • 1 1/2 10-ounce cans fire-roasted diced tomatoes with green chiles (1 3/4 cups)
  • 1 12-ounce bottle Mexican beer
  • 1 7-ounce can diced roasted green chiles
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro stems
  • 4 cups 1 1/2- to 2-inch chunks seeded peeled butternut squash (from 3 1/2-pound squash)

GARNISHES

  • Fresh cilantro leaves
  • Chopped red onion
  • Diced avocado
  • Shredded Monterey Jack cheese
  • Warm corn and/or flour tortillas

Preparation

CHILI

  • Place chiles in medium bowl. Pour enough boiling water over to cover. Soak until chiles soften, at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours.
  • Preheat oven to 350°F. Sauté bacon in heavy large ovenproof pot over medium-high heat until beginning to brown. Add onions. Reduce heat to medium; cover and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle beef all over with coarse salt and pepper. Add to pot; stir to coat. Set aside.
  • Drain chiles, reserving soaking liquid. Place chiles in blender. Add 1 cup soaking liquid, garlic, chili powder, cumin seeds, oregano, coriander, and 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt; blend to puree, adding more soaking liquid by 1/4 cupfuls if very thick. Pour puree over brisket in pot. Add tomatoes with juices, beer, green chiles, and cilantro stems. Stir to coat evenly.
  • Bring chili to simmer. Cover and place in oven. Cook 2 hours. Uncover and cook until beef is almost tender, about 1 hour. Add squash; stir to coat. Roast uncovered until beef and squash are tender, adding more soaking liquid if needed to keep meat covered, about 45 minutes longer. Season chili to taste with salt and pepper. Tilt pot and spoon off any fat from surface of sauce. DO AHEAD Can be made 2 days ahead. Cool 1 hour. Chill uncovered until cold, then cover and keep chilled.

GARNISHES

  • Set out garnishes in separate dishes. Rewarm chili over low heat. Ladle chili into bowls and serve.
  • *Available at many supermarkets and at specialty foods stores and Latin markets

Pride Goeth Before the Fall

July 27, 2008

The Brisket King is dead.  Long Live the Brisket King.

As you might surmise, the “brisket king” was trounced in the State of Michigan BBQ Competition.  Yes….I was in the bottom ten instead of the top ten.  The only good news on the brisket front was that the beating was self-inflicted.

Poor choice of meat and lack of attention to the cook.  To make a long story short, I bought an untrimmed brisket and did not anticipate the amount of fat that cooked off, starting an early morning grease fire.  From that point, I attempted to recover, but the brisket ended up being very dry….something I thought I had worked through with my foil wrap technique.

However, my mistake in technique was not fully wrapping (crimping the foil tight around the brisket) the meat and instead I just let it simmer in a foil pan, leaving the top 30% of the brisket exposed to the dry winds of a Weber kettle.

Not all was lost however.  Team Grilladelic took 12th overall (out of 39 teams) and had a 5th in chicken and 7th in ribs.  If only the brisket had cooperated…I could of been a contender!

As I wrote earlier, I was gunning for a top 15 finish and two walks.  I accomplished that and now will focus my efforts on the Silver Lake Barbecue Competition!

Pictures of the fun weekend to follow!


Secrets of the Brisket King Revealed!

June 27, 2008

Al Capone’s vault, King Tut’s tomb, and the unraveling of DNA’s genetic code take a back seat to the secret of a perfect barbecued beef brisket.

How do you make a shoe-leather tough piece of beef fork tender? How do you manage the smoke and heat of an open fire for the amount of time it takes to accomplish this amazing feat?

Mark this date: Brisket and Pork Butt Clinic, Thursday, July 17, 6:00 pm, Herman’s Boy, Rockford, MI. $25.00/person. Part humanitarian and part selfishness, as I prepare for the State of Michigan BBQ Championship, I will share with those in the class, the secrets of my award winning beef brisket. Also discussed will be how to barbecue pork shoulder. The grill of choice will be the Big Green Egg, however all techniques will be  applicable to any grill. This is an event not to be missed by those who seek the state of mind best described as “grilladelic”.


Grilladelics Most Wanted!

January 25, 2008

All right….

January and February are difficult months for grill and BBQ enthusiasts in Michigan (and the Midwest). Not impossible, but difficult.

Here is what I am interested in these bleak months, to help prepare for the open fires of spring.

1. A recipe for a good BBQ sauce. Sweet, spicy and thick. I don’t want molasses sweet. Either honey or fruit sweet. Spicy should be a kick, about 2-3 seconds after the sweet. Thick and gooey. I do like the thin, peppery sauces of Texas, but in Michigan….sweet is the trick. A little bite sets you apart from the masses.

2. A good, simple mop for pork butts. Salt and vinegar focused. I don’t like complicated recipes. Taste buds need that salt and vinegar fix.  Salty with a kick (followed by the sweet and spicy sauce).

3. A great cole slaw recipe. Not Gordon Foods or Sam’s Clubs bulk, corporate “slaw”, but a real earthy, simply, slaw. I am looking for rough cut veggies with almost an asian-style taste….Miracle Whip need not apply.  Please. Cole slaw compliments BBQ more than anything else.

That is my wish list. I am comfortable with my brisket (rub and technique), and my chicken (technique and sauce). I think I can improve ribs and pulled pok with a better sauce. The cole slaw is for the side.

Let me know….being grilladelic is about making the world a better place. One neighborhood BBQ party at a time!


Technique

November 9, 2007

I didn’t want to get to far away from my brisket posts, so here is an outline of the technique I used. First, I have bbq’d briskets for several years. It certainly is not my specialty. Briskets are not what a native born Michigander typically barbecues. However, as a required category in the KCBS circuit, I will do a half dozen every year.

My preferred piece of equipment for a brisket is a Big Green Egg or Hasty Bake. The Egg is perfect because of it’s ability to maintain a steady temperature “forever”. The Egg is also a high moisture grill, so I don’t worry about drying out the meat.

With that said, I have been focusing on simplifying my bbq style. I wanted to be able compete (and win) with the basics…which led me to adapt all my recipes to a basic Weber kettle.

I have always tried to do my briskets at 2 hours per pound. Grill temp at around 225 degrees +/-. The kettle is an imperfect piece of equipment. Stripped down to fuel, grate and vents. More of an art form. No thermostaticly controlled pellet auger :)   I also have three young kids at home. Long cooks are almost out of the question. My challenge became, how can I do a brisket in the shortest possible time, but still get it fork tender and moist.

My “aha”moment for brisket came in reading a recipe for beef short ribs. Basically braised in a beef broth, wine and bbq sauce solution. Cooked in the oven at low temps. I tried the recipe and it was great. Now how to adapt for a Weber.

This is what I ended up with. A six pound brisket, seasoned with the rub posted earlier. A Weber kettle, lump charcoal banked on both sides. Four chunks of pecan wood. Once the coals were hot, I placed the brisket in the middle, directly on the grates and added the chunks to the coal. Vents open. Four chunks of pecan create a heavy smudge in a kettle…very heavy. After two hours, I opened the lid. The brisket looked like a meteorite. Burnt in it’s descension to earth. In other words, perfect.

At that point, I layed the brisket out on a piece of heavy duty foil. Big enough to wrap twice. I then poured on a concoction made of beef broth, spicy bbq sauce (Orgasmic Slabs brand) and a bottle of Harp beer. ( I bagged the wine from the original recipe). I crimped the foil lightly, allowing for some steam to escape and placed back on the grill. I did not add any more fuel. Closed the vents slightly and walked away. About 3.5 hours later I returned and closed off the vents. 45 minutes later pulled the brisket and let rest. 30 minutes later, sliced and served.

The words to describe it: moist, flavorful, smokey, and beautiful. A six pound brisket, in just over six hours, that kicked some serious .ss! I have duplicated this several times.  


Award winning brisket

November 5, 2007

ribbons1.jpg Here is a picture my daughter took of Grilladelic’s winning brisket, trophy and ribbons at the Silver Lake BBQ Competition this September. The Silver Lake competition is a sanctioned BBQ Kansas City Barbecue Society tournament. We ended up 6th place overall. Not bad for my first tournament in a few years! Even more satisfying was using only two Weber kettles.

In future posts I will share my recipes and techniques for not only brisket, but everything I create on the grill.