Beef, Coals, and Nirvana

July 9, 2009

Here is my favorite Q & A from the article copied below:

Q: You say in the book food shouldn’t be too pretty. Why?

A: “I believe that you cook, and when it’s ready you just put in on the plate. Don’t touch it, don’t move it around. Cooking is a craft, it’s not an art. I don’t believe in decoration. (On my TV show) I only cook outside in beautiful places with fires and it’s very simple. I do it to fight this trend in the world of cooking of complicated recipes. I just have a couple of eggs in my pocket and I chop an onion on my knee and cook something on a stick.”

The best “Q” I have ever made or had…was “simple”

Simple in preparation.  Simple in seasoning.  Simple in sauce.  Simple with fuels.

Give me a 7# brisket, salt, pepper, chile powder, lump charcoal, pecan wood, beef broth, Guinness, Big Ricks, Weber kettle and about 8-9 hours… and I will deliver some mighty fine eats.

Viva Argentina!

Q&A: Top Argentine chef Francis Mallman explains how to grill an entire cow

Nick Zieminski, Reuters Published: Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Chef Francis Mallman.HandoutChef Francis Mallman.

NEW YORK • If you’re going to grill the Argentine way, it helps to have a hunger for meat, a big wood fire, and plenty of open space.

Patagonia will do.

Argentine chef Francis Mallmann, who runs three highly-regarded restaurants in Argentina and Uruguay, was raised in the Patagonia region and credits its culture and style for inspiring his cooking.

His television show airs across Latin America, and he may launch a program for U.S. audiences to help fight a trend toward overly complicated recipes.

Mallmann, who spoke with Reuters this month, aims to inspire American cooks with the simple, unpretentious food in his new cookbook, “Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way.”

Q: Yours may be the only cookbook to include a recipe for grilling an entire cow. Who is your audience?

A: “The idea was to adapt all the Argentine ways of cooking into a home, where you can do these things in the backyard or a kitchen even if you don’t want to light a fire. You can still achieve good things on a stove, the burned orange with rosemary, burned tomato with oregano, the smashed beet with the goat cheese and garlic chips. You can’t do the cow inside.”

Q: What defines Argentine cooking?

A: “It has to do with our culture, our idiosyncrasies. We are a bleeding country, economically, socially, but there is a huge beauty in that adversity. That struggle makes you creative. That goes into cooking, into tango, into soccer.”

Q: Why is it often important to burn the food a little?

A: “I like the taste of burned. In some things it works really well, like with tomatoes or oranges. Lamb is good slightly charred. I don’t believe in harmony when you eat, I like contrasts. Charred meat has that bite, but there’s a boundary, it can’t be black.”

Q: You say in the book food shouldn’t be too pretty. Why?

A: “I believe that you cook, and when it’s ready you just put in on the plate. Don’t touch it, don’t move it around. Cooking is a craft, it’s not an art. I don’t believe in decoration. (On my TV show) I only cook outside in beautiful places with fires and it’s very simple. I do it to fight this trend in the world of cooking of complicated recipes. I just have a couple of eggs in my pocket and I chop an onion on my knee and cook something on a stick.”

Q: Is cooking never an art?

A: “Never. The only reason to eat and drink well is to have better conversations with peers. It’s arrogant to think that cooking is an art. It shouldn’t be like going to a cathedral.”

Q: What makes a good chimichurri sauce?

A: “There’s only one chimichurri. It’s like minestrone in Italy, it can change from town to town, but the basics are olive oil, salmuera, which is kind of a brine … red wine vinegar and fresh, chopped parsley and oregano. Once I saw pineapple chimichurri, strawberry chimichurri, I was horrified. That’s what happens with trends. A trend comes up and we destroy the culture. If you want to make it with strawberries, call it something else.”

Q: Are there certain ingredients you can’t do without?

A: “Very good salt, very good olive oil, very good red wine vinegar. With that you can do anything. Good sea salts have texture, they’re big, but when you bite them they fall apart. The best olive oils for me are the peppery ones.”

Q: How do you cook a complete cow?

A: “Very slowly, over 14, 16 hours. It’s not the most delicious thing, it’s a culture thing. You have 200 people at a party. some parts will be tasty and tender, some will be very tough. it’s not the best recipe in the book.”

© Thomson Reuters 2009.

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Fourth of July BBQ Resources

July 3, 2009

Just in time for the 4th Weekend. Here are some “go-to” recipes and sites for the BBQ enthusiast!

First, here is some expert advice:

  • Don’t overcook your chicken!
  • A mixed grill works well for family get togethers; Italian sausage, pork chops, chicken legs and thighs, and flank steak.  This requires “grill vigilance” (you can’t wander).
  • For “low and slow”, nothing beats a pork butt.  After it hits 195 degrees internal, you are free to pull, chop, or slice.  Feeds a big crowd.  Leftovers are awesome.  Give yourself at least eight hours though.
  • Support your local butcher!
  • Support your local brewer!
  • Sauce on the side.  Show off your rub.
  • Cooks should sample everything before it is served.  A sharp knife and a little craftiness helps here.
  • Music – if in Grand Rapids, all you need is WYCE- 88.1
  • If you have the luxury, use all-natural lump charcoal.  Preferably Lazzari.
  • homepagePhoto

All right, here a few on-line resources with your best barbecue recipes and techniques.

Bon Appetit has a decent layout and recipes for a 4th of July BBQ feasts.

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Weber Grills is always a terrific resource.   Both gas and charcoal enthusiasts can find common ground.

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For wood-fired traditionalists, check out The Grillery.   Interesting story behind this unit.  Started out in Ann Arbor, MI and now the company is run by the founder’s son, Ben Eisendrath.  Good guy. Very responsive to questions.

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I can’t blog without giving a call-out to The Big Green Egg. As the original dealer of the Egg in west Michigan, I sold hundreds of these units.  Egg-heads are very loyal and very, very, very good cooks.  Good recipes, although cooking with ceramic is different and not all recipes translate well to more traditional grills.  However, if you like the flavor profile, go for it!!

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Cookshack

Hasty Bake

That’s it for now.  Have a great fourth.


Local Thirst!

June 5, 2009

More national recognition for our local treasure, Founder’s Brewery!

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The July issue of Bon Appetit christened their Centennial IPA as one of their favorite beers in that hoppy category.  The article focused on how IPA’s are the perfect compliment to a summer barbecue. Can’t argue with that.  Especially if you have serious grill skills and know how to spice up the brisket and ribs.

Grand Rapid’s own Founders Brewing Company, home of great local beer and a few crazy and deranged fools!

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Michigan Scores Two “Best of New BBQ Restaurants”

June 4, 2009

Surprise!

Two Michigan restaurants scored a mention in the July issue of Bon Appetit

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The Yardbird sandwich (pulled chicken) from Detroit’s Slow Bar BQ

From the magazine:

Zingerman’s Roadhouse
Ann Arbor, Michigan
This eclectic eatery—part of a deli and mail-order empire—is known for its regional American dishes. So it’s no surprise that their barbecue (whole hog, chicken, brisket), pit-roasted over Michigan hardwood, is well worth a road trip. 2501 Jackson Avenue; 734-663-3663

Slows Bar BQ
Detroit
At this sleek Corktown neighborhood favorite, be sure to try the Yardbird sandwich (pictured), which is piled with juicy smoked pulled chicken tossed with mushrooms and cheddar and topped with applewood bacon. Traditionalists will find comfort in an order of St. Louis-style spareribs or Texas-style beef brisket. 2138 Michigan Avenue; 313-962-9828

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I’ve always believed Michigan has a rich tradition in “Q”,  but it certainly is never mentioned among the usual “best of” suspects: Texas, the Carolina’s, Tennessee…

Speaking of which, I haven’t tried the fare yet, but Sandmann’s and Crudups are a couple of good looking BBQ joints on Wealthy St.   Local smoke.

Soon:  Grand Rapids: home of the arts, white water rafting, minor league sports mecca, and world class BBQ!


Post Memorial Day, Hard Hitting Grilling Analysis

May 27, 2009

I found the following blog post on Yahoo last weekMy expert analysis appears in red italics.  Enjoy

In honor of Memorial Day, we at Serious Eats got eight hot grilling tips from Adam Perry Lang, a remarkable chef and grill master. Adam opened Daisy May’s BBQ in 2003, which has shocked those who thought outstanding barbecue couldn’t exist in Manhattan. He told us the wrong ways people try to grill and how to make them right.

8 Wrong Ways to Grill From Adam Perry Lang

Using a Flimsy Grill Brush: Invest in the sturdiest one you can; one with heavy tines (the coarse brush hairs) that won’t fall out. In this case, price doesn’t always indicate quality. Just get a sturdy-looking one, not necessarily a fancy one.  I am not sure about this one. When I do baste (which is not often) I prefer either a spritzer or a silicone basting brush, which is much easier to clean and disinfect.  Next time you are barbecuing, try putting some apple juice in a clean spritzer and mist your meat several times.  Beats scraping off your bark. (the crusty, spicy outer coating on your meat)

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Using Dull Spices: Don’t ruin a great cut of meat with dull spices. Buy small amounts and buy them fresh (and often). Try anything from Ancho or Hatch chile powder to coarsely ground fresh black pepper, apple juice, or bourbon.  Can’t really argue about this tip, but boy is this hard for the average grilling Joe (or Jill). Keeping fresh spices is difficult and requires much diligence.  Those one and two teaspoons of exotic spices are killer.  When buying quality spices  I still am a big believer in Penzeys, although many cities now have their own spice stores. Buy local when at all possible.

Cooking Meat on the Wrong Heat: Tougher, collagen-rich cuts should be on a relatively lower indirect heat. Collagen is the tough stuff that converts to gelatin when it’s cooked right and gives barbecue that stick-to-your-ribs luscious texture. Meat with a lot of intramuscular fat (the marbling), on the other hand, should cook on direct heat. Lean cuts of chicken are actually best on moderate heat.  He is preaching to the choir here.  A staple of my BBQ classes is the discussion on grilling and BBQ temperatures.  However (and departing from conventional BBQ wisdom) I am finding  I can BBQ at higher temps (275-300 degrees) with great success if I use a little foil.  Speeds things up with little or no loss of quality.

Not Soaking Wood Chips: Often, the wood you’re using will be too dry, which won’t release that beautiful smolder. The water slows down the burn because the water has to cook off before the wood around it ignites. While this is happening, you get just the right amount of smoke.  OK…this is BBQ 101.  Kind of like looking both ways before crossing a road.

Removing Corn From Its Husk: When grilling corn, leave the ear in its husk. This ensures that the corn will stay sweet and juicy throughout the cooking process. A bit random.   Try this technique just to be a contrarian;  remove corn from husk.  Baste corn with Italian dressing, wrap in lightly dampened paper towel.  Wrap in tin foil.  Place on grill (direct- medium/low) for about 25-30 minutes)  Learned this from Mad Dog and Merrill many years ago.

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Improperly Extinguishing Flare-Ups: Some chefs are very averse to them but, hey, they’re inevitable, so just embrace them. Whatever you do, don’t try to extinguish them with water. You wouldn’t put out a grease fire with water, right? When you see an unwanted flare-up, don’t panic. Just move your meat to another hot part of the grill. If you’re still getting flare-ups and are afraid that your meat might burn, retreat to the lower-temperature zone. If your grill doesn’t have a lower temp, try stacking any meat that needs a break from the heat on top of one that doesn’t. Pretty good advice.  Although a spritzer of water has extinguished many a small flare up.  Grease fires are nasty though.  One time, after recently coming home from a BBQ Competition with my Hasty Bake, I fired up the unit for a cook only to discover that some of the grease of pork butt had splattered on the side of the grill during it’s bumpy journey home (I forget to empty out the drip tray).  Within minutes, I had black smoke and flames bellowing out of my old Hasty Bake.  The scars remain, even though I have repainted several times. This can happen with any grill, so be careful after long cooks with fatty meats.  Take care of the grease pan.

Forgetting the Post-Grill Marination: Instead of taking meat from the cooker and putting it on a dry cutting board, I paint a layer of glaze or barbecue sauce on the board. I drizzle on oil and add salt, pepper, herbs, and things like green apple, garlic, jalapeno, lemon zest grated on the Microplane.  What the heck is a microplane?  Oh well, marinate if you like.  Whatever.   I do like a little olive oil on steaks.  For my BBQ meats (ribs, brisket, pork butts) I use a heavy yellow mustard slather. I never use BBQ Sauce though.  That sugar burns brother!  I finish with BBQ sauce…never start with BBQ sauce.

Running Out of Fuel: Be prepared with more than you think is enough! The last thing you want is to be caught with half a tank of propane or too little charcoal.  I find that propane is easier to run out than charcoal.  I see my bags of charcoal.  For propane I rely on the weight gauges or other type of gauges.  Good advice- there is nothing worse than unfinished business at the grill.


Memphis in May 2009

May 19, 2009

My wife’s birthday surprise was a trip to Memphis for the famous Memphis in May Barbecue Competition.  I love my wife!!

Never been there, always wanted to go, didn’t see it coming.

Now that I have been there and done it, here are my observations:

1. It is truly an extravaganza. As far as the eye could see, lining Lee Park on the banks of the mighty Mississippi River, were tents, people and smoke.  The team’s booths were unbelievable.  Nothing like the KCBS tournaments I cook in.  I could of imagine  $5,000 – $20,000 (easily!!) to develop these “booths”.  Over the top crazy. The event appeared to be very well organized and promoted.  The city was great and very welcoming to barbecue enthusiasts.  No small feat!  Memphis hospitality was awesome and it is certainly one of the historically funkiest cities I have ever been in. (Sun Studio, Stax Studio, Beale St., South Main, Gibson Guitar, BB King Blues Bar, etc, etc.)

2.  Although billed as a “World Championship”, the vast majority of teams were based in Tennessee.  Don’t know the percentage, but I would guess 65% (+/-), with another 20-30% being from Arkansas or other surrounding states.  Very few Carolina, Texas, Florida, California or midwestern teams.   Oh well, good marketing and good for them.  But “world championship?” (there was a Danish team with at least 20 Weber’s bullets and kettles lined up with European precision)

3. The concession barbecue (unless you were a member or friend of a team) was the only place to try any of the “Q”.  I am being generous to say it was mediocre.   Dry bun and flavorless pork.  As a spectator, I was expecting to be able to try GREAT “Q”.  Not to be.  There was a “Taste of Competition” tent set up, where for $4.00 you could sample team’s “que”, but on Friday, they ran out early and for some reason, they decided not to do it on Saturday.

4.  I am very glad I went. The event was cool. I can say I did it.  However I don’t think I would return, unless I was cooking.  Perhaps it is because I cook in a few KCBS events every year, that I don’t really get too excited about the different smokers being used anymore.  But there wasn’t a whole lot of unique things for “spectators”.   It would of been nice to have bands playing throughout the day (bands played at night but you could not bring in a chair…)  maybe a beer tent or area with picnic tables to chill out after walking and walking and walking.

What’s next?

I’ve attended the Royal but my next event on my life list is The Jack (but the only way I would go is if I get the invite!!!!)


New Barbecue Sauce Concoction

May 8, 2009

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Thanks to my friend Brent at Beanilla Trading Company, I am experimenting with a vanilla-based barbecue sauce, *possibly for use in the 2009 State of Michigan Competition (for use on my pulled pork)

Here is the basic recipe- adapted from a Steve Raichlen book, Raichlen on Ribs: (recipe discovered via RecipeZar)

bbqbiblejohnson

Ingredients

  • 1 cup tomatoe sauce
  • 1/4 cup dark molasses
  • 1/4 cup white vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons worcestershire sauce
  • 2 tablespoons turbinado sugar
  • 2 tablespoons mustard (prepared- Dijon or spicy brown)
  • 1-2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 2 Madagascar Vanilla Beans
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  • Kosher salt to taste
  • black pepper to taste

Directions

  1. Combine tomato sauce, molasses, vinegar, Worsestershire sauce, sugar, mustard, cayenne, vanilla beans (split the beans and scrape out the inside “guts”) and 1/4 teaspoons each of salt and pepper in a non-reactive saucepan and slowly bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
  2. Reduce heat to medium and let sauce simmer gently until dark, thick, richly flavored and slightly reduced, 6-10 minutes.  Taste, add more seasonings (salt, pepper, cayenne for test)
  3. Let sauce cool to room temperature before serving. Keep in a well sealed container in refrigerator for up to several weeks. Makes enough for 4 lbs. ribs.

As a brethern of the barbecue, Brent and Beanilla Trading Company are certainly worthy of being certified 100% Grilladelic.

* possibly, but my experience is that simplicity and classic barbecue ingredients are what judges prefer in competition.   Many a gourmet has went down in flames in these competitions.  Tenderness, taste and appearance gets the call outs.


The Temptations of Spring

April 17, 2009

It’s just my imagination, running away with me….

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I have a garage full of grills, but I am still searching for true love…

The new Weber One Touch Gold- 26″ Kettle.  Approx. $300

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This classic is significantly bigger than the standard 22.5″.  Very tempting indeed.  It might not seem like it’s that much bigger, but i think the added 150 sq. inch would be put to good use. Here is the grate comparison.

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A few more chicken quarters, brats or burgers.  Most importantly though would be more room to bank the coals and to create multiple grilling zones.

As previously reported, here is another new Weber product vying for my affection (and pocketbook!!)

The  22″ Weber Smokey Mountain Cooker. Approx. $350.00

smokeymtn221

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You have to see this R2D2 clone to really appreciate it.  I could easily do 50-75 lbs of pork butt or brisket!!!  The question becomes, why would I want to BBQ 50-75lbs of anything. I love BBQ, but don’t think my family could eat that in a week.  Still, this is a black beauty with a lot of horsepower.  Sometimes it’s good to be irrational.  Just check out the access to the firebox!  Can you imagine feeding pecan and cherry chunks onto hot coals…and seeing the smoke pour out.  It would be low, slow and furious!    Vin Diesel…eat your heart out.

The third beauty- the Weber Ranch.  Approx. $1000

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This makes me want to adopt 20 kids.  Hard to justify for a family of five, but for 25…heck yes.  Cooking surface galore.  Can you say roast suckling pigs!   20 cornish hens! two-dozen racks of ribs! Pure grilling insanity.  It’s just my imagination…

ohhhhhhhhhhhhh ohhhhhhhh ooohhhhhhhhh.
Each day through my window I watch out as she sits outside,
I say to myself you’re such a lucky guy,
To have a grill like her,
Is truly a dream come true,
Out of all the fellas in the world,
She belongs to me.

But it was just my imagination
Running away with me,
It was just my imagination
Running away with me.


1000 apologies to one of the greatest musical groups of all-time, The Temptations!


Build a Better Burger Practice. #1

April 15, 2009

Here’s the first test:

I was trying for meat loaf theme.  Testing out texture and grillability.

  • 3# Ground Chuck
  • 1# Ground Sirloin
  • 1/2 C cracker crumbs
  • 2 eggs
  • 2T Lawry’s Salt
  • 2T Soy Sauce

(this made about 14 burgers!!  We do leftovers….)

Garnishes:

  • Swiss cheese
  • American Cheese
  • Dill Pickles
  • Ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise
  • Lettuce, Tomatoe
  • Onion bun

Results/Comments

  • Blah
  • Need more flavor
  • Looks weird (this was not an issue until I shared the recipe)
  • Very soft…(the meatloaf influence)
  • Add shredded cheese to the burger

Action Plan

  • Scrap any meatloaf theme
  • Focus on different condiments/cheeses
  • Find a new testing panel

Smokey Mountain Monster

April 12, 2009

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I was at Rylee’s Hardware in downtown Grand Rapids this week and stumbled upon the new 22.5″ Weber Smokey Mountain Cooker.  This is a beast!  Here are a few specs:
22.5 inch smoker dimensions
• Height: 48.5 inches
• Width: 23 inches
• Depth: 24 inches

22.5 inch cooking area = 726 square inches

Weber’s bullet smokers are very highly regarded by BBQ enthusiasts. These units are well made and several rungs up on the grill-evolution ladder of self enlightenment. The Virtual Bullet website offers terrific support for the  individuals using the Weber bullet smokers.  

This unit was selling for approximately $359.00 *(MSRP is $499.00)

If I told you once, I told you a thousand times;  with grills, you get what you pay for! There are an abundance of “cheap” smokers on the market but more times than not, they end up making the barbecue journey frustrating (poor temperature control, inadequate access to firebox and inferior construction) instead of a joy.

This would be a great investment for anyone interesting in adding “low and slow” to their skill set or looking to upgrade to a better BBQ experience.

With a little care, probably looking at 10-15 years of moderate to heavy use.

* Amazon had the unit selling for $369.00 but support your local Weber dealer unless is the price is WAY out of whack!